Utah: Zion National Park – Brian, Lena & Anna

November 17, 2021November 18, 2021 thewanderingthomspersLeave a comment

Driving through the canyons of the Virgin River Gorge on Interstate 15 from Nevada to Utah gives a small taste of what is to come. We finally arrived in St. George and crashed at the house of a generous family friend. After a leisurely morning, we stopped at an amazing playground named Thunder Junction All Abilities Park. It was just what Bug and Noodle needed – imaginative play structures, various types of swings, and plenty of things to climb. They especially loved the splash park because the temperature was above 100F (38C).

Zion National Park was a long anticipated stop for both Lena and Brian. However, we were not sure what to expect. First, recent news stories featured National Parks – especially in Utah – with cars lined up for hours to enter. Completely understandable that people were so fed up with pandemic lockdowns that they just wanted to get out into nature, and how awesome for the parks to get money and recognition that they deserve. But the impact on the environment and on our own trip were potentially unfortunate. Second, we had gotten reports of a flash flood in Zion the day before that had closed the the main highway and many parts of the park. And finally, the famous Narrows hike was not currently recommended for young children and came with warnings of harmful bacterial blooms in the water. So we were going into this leg of the trip with an open mind and an understanding that it may not go as planned.

On a positive note, the increased elevation from St. George to Springdale, where our next accommodation was located, lowered the temperature significantly. The Wandering Thomspers generally prefer to stay in unique spots or boutique hotels, and the Zion Wildflower Resort fit the bill perfectly. Nestled at the base of a striking ridge sat a cluster of luxury canvas tents and…covered wagons! Naturally we chose the covered wagons because how often do you get that opportunity? Bug and Noodle insisted on maneuvering the small wagon piled with our luggage from the car park all the way up the hill, and Brian had to be very discreet with his extra help.

The four of us stayed in one wagon and Anna got her own. It fit the four of us perfectly with Bug and Noodle getting bunk beds. In addition to the much appreciated air conditioning, the wagon featured wood floors, supple linens, a mini frig and bedside lanterns. Although shared, the bathrooms were spotless and darn near fancy. There were so many thoughtful details, like the filtered water dispenser, coffee in the camp store, and garden games to play in the communal area. We especially enjoyed sipping cold beverages and stargazing in the evenings after hot days of dusty hikes.

On our first afternoon, we headed toward Zion to assess and make a plan. As we got close to the park, immense red rocks towered around us on both sides. At eye level, the roads and parking lots along the river were covered in mud that was quickly drying into fine dust. Cleanup was in full swing with bulldozers and other heavy equipment hard at work. Our first stop was the Visitors Center to pick up Junior Ranger Books, meet with a Ranger to choose our hikes, and figure out the shuttle system. To alleviate the environmental impact of over 4 million visitors annually, cars are only allowed on certain roads, and most trailheads require visitors to use the park’s shuttle system. Furthermore, due to COVID, masks were required on all shuttles.

Zion is unique because the park and trails are located at the bottom of the 2640ft (800m) canyon. From the Visitors Center, we decided to take an easy afternoon stroll along the Pa’rus Trail which is paved and is open to cyclists and people with leashed dogs. We were keen to stretch our legs and allow Bug and Noodle to complete some pages in their Junior Ranger Books. Noodle spotted a young mule deer. He was very excited and laid on the ground to stealthily observe the buck. The kids also identified several tracks in the mud, let Darkling beetles crawl across their hands, and chased Western Whiptails and Plateau lizards.

Back at the resort, we found s’mores kits waiting for us to use at the communal campfire. This was a first for Anna. Since it was nearly American Independence Day, the chocolate provided was white chocolate with red and blue sprinkles. We are traditionalist when it comes to s’mores, so this was funny but not the best first impression. Nonetheless, everyone around the fire had advice about the perfect way to roast a marshmallow. It turns out that Anna agrees with Lena and Bug about slowly caramelizing it over coals, while Brian likes lighting it on fire for the charred effect. Noodle just barely warms his marshmallow, loses patience, and eats it as fast as he can so he can have another one.

We woke the next morning ready to conquer Zion’s iconic trails. Anna opted for the once in a lifetime Angels Landing Trail, while the Thomspers decided to meander along the Virgin River and assess the wet portion of the Narrows hike on arrival. We didn’t have any special gear and knew the kids couldn’t manage the whole 9.4 miles (15 km) anyways, so we were just excited to check out the slot canyon.

Crowds were already evident as we approached the park at 7:00am. Anna ran ahead to catch a shuttle because she had been warned that there might be a long wait. Rangers were controlling the number of hikers on the Angels Landing Trail and releasing groups at intervals. On the other hand, the Thomsper clan stopped for coffee, spotted lizards, and finally made our way to the shuttle. After a short wait, we finally squeezed on. Just riding a bus can be exciting for our little people, and the Riverside Trailhead (which leads to the Narrows) was at the end of the line. After disembarking and following the crowd to the trailhead, we took a quiet side trail that allowed Bug and Noodle to take their time spotting butterflies and birds. But the closer we got to the river the louder the voices of excited waders/hikers squishing and dripping their way out of the Narrows.

We were nervous about crowds and wore our masks, but the real danger was actually the toxic Cyanobacteria algae blooms which had popped up in all the waterways in and around Zion. Just to get a sense of the adventure and experience the massive canyon walls, we decided to careful wade for a short distance. We didn’t allow Bug and Noodle to play in the water, and we were all careful not to fall. Don’t be fooled by our photos; the river was actually packed with people. Once the kids began complaining about being cold and got sufficiently frustrated that they couldn’t splash each other, we decided to turn back and joined the queue of wet walkers back to the shuttle.

Here is Anna’s account of the most challenging and most exhilarating hike in the park:

Coming from New Zealand, I am well accustomed to the outdoors. Having seen photos and listened to Brian and Lena’s hype, I was so excited to learn more about Zion National Park. Despite the short time we had there, I was super keen to get out and explore. Although the Narrows looked beautiful, I decided that Angels Landing was my once in a lifetime experience.

The process of getting to the trailhead, receiving my number, and knowing how long I would wait was very well organised considering the amount of people. Rangers were also very knowledgable about the details of the hike. I set out full of enthusiasm and very quickly climbed the switchbacks that wound up the side of the mountain. As a reprieve from the heat, I stopped in the Refrigerator Canyon to watch squirrels and bird life before tackling more fun switchbacks to Scouts Landing. This was a great place to rest and refuel before navigating the chains scaling the cliff face all the way to the top.

Due to traffic on the face, I had to wait about ten minutes before the climb. This section was an incredible experience. Every view could be on a post card. The only thing I can relate it to is the La Folly to Champex Lac chains section of the Tour Du Mt Blanc. However, this time I thankfully not carrying my world on my back.

At the highest point, the name Angels Landing was abundantly clear. Everywhere I looked was breathtaking. I felt so small in such an immense landscape. It truly was something I will never forget.

Meanwhile down below…

We had trouble reuniting with Anna because none of our mobile phones had service in the park. It was like meeting up with friends when we were teenagers. You make a tentative plan, show up, and entertain yourself until it works out. Terrifying but liberating in this age. Our entertainment was blissful. We hung out under the huge cottonwood tree in front of Zion Lodge while the kids ran barefoot in the grass. When Anna eventually found us, we got some ice cream to celebrate our successful adventures and headed back to our wagons to rest before dinner.

We sadly checked out of our dreamy glamping wagons and packing up the minivan the following morning before setting out to get one last glimpse of the park. First, we retraced our route on Highway 9 back down into La Verkin. Since it was the day before our Independence Day, the quaint town was covered in American flags and definitely gave Anna a taste of 4th of July celebrations. After a short jog on I-15, we took the back entrance into a much lesser known separate section of Zion, known as Kolob Canyons. The self-drive winds through sandstone box canyons to a ridge with sweeping views. We took a short 1.0 mile (1.6 km) Timber Creek Overlook Trail through Pinyon pines that ended at the edge of a cliff looking out to red rock canyons, mountain peaks, and even the North Rim of the Grand Canyon 100 miles (161 km) away. The boulders at the end of the out-and-back trail offered perfect perches for sipping our morning coffee and taking in the views while Bug and Noodle safely and contentedly scrambled across the rocks and scaled as many trees as possible. We had friendly chats with the few hikers who ventured to this side of the park, but overall it was magical to have this little corner of the world to ourselves.

Keeping an eye on the time, we backtracked again to the main entrance of Zion and drove east on to the 1.1 mile (1.77 km) Zion-Mt Carmel Tunnel, which was built in the late 1920s. Windows are carved into the north side of the tunnel and offer glimpses of the spectacular scenery. Just past the exit, we parked and hopped onto the short but exhilarating Canyon Overlook Trail. It begins with a short ascent, winds around shaded alcoves, and ends in a field of psychedelic rock formations beyond which the most famous rock faces of Zion Canyon are visible (Tower of the Virgins, East. Temple, the Great Arch, etc.) Although not strenuous, we had tight security on our curious kids, as many parts of the trail were sheer drops with minimal or no railings. Sufficiently hot and dusty, we settled back into our well-loved vehicle and made the two hour drive to Bryce Canyon National Park.

A Journey Through Nevada Part 1 – Lena and Brian

September 16, 2021September 16, 2021 thewanderingthomspersLeave a comment

After our time in San Francisco, our first stop on our Best of the West Roadtrip was “The Biggest Little City in the World.” There is one main route to get from the Bay Area to Reno that involves taking the interstate I-80 and without fail getting stuck in traffic around Sacramento. However, there are several smaller state roads through the mountains that are opened seasonally and technically take longer but are breathtakingly scenic. Lena had taken one such road almost 20 years ago and always wanted to do it again, so we decided that this was the perfect opportunity. State Highway 4, also known as Ebbets’ Pass, is a narrow road that winds over the Sierra Nevada mountains. Originally a Native American trail, the route was explored by Euro-American fur trappers and later became popular during the silver and gold rushes of the 1850s and 1860s. Today the route offers an alpine paradise for summer camping and lake sports and winter lodges and snow sports.

Crystal blue lakes and jagged granite peaks marked the way through tall pine forests. We stopped numerous times to take in views and smell the air. The kids were less excited than the adults, and somewhere along the drive Noodle broke off his headphone jack inside his iPad. For the entirety of our three week roadtrip, he stoically watched the device with no sound. Or fought with his brother while sharing his screen.

Needing to stretch our legs and alleviate the iPad drama, we stopped at Lake Alpine to dip our feet and let Bug and Noodle run wild. There were many other groups lounging around the shore. The kids befriended several dogs and the enthusiasm for games of fetch was mutual. It is alway interesting to see them interact with dogs when we come to the United States. In many countries where we have lived and traveled, canines are not considered family members and are often unpredictable. Therefore, Bug and Noodle are generally interested but hesitant, so it was sweet to see them splashing around and laughing with the gentle pups. As we sipped cold beverages and waded around in the freezing snow melt, an adolescent bald eagle swooped low across the lake. Conversations ceased and all heads raised to watch the majestic creature soar overhead.

The drive dropped from pine forest into high desert as we entered Nevada. Farmhouses turned into suburban neighborhoods turned into city sprawl as we passed through Carson City and entered downtown Reno. Our destination, The Whitney Peak Hotel, is the only non-gaming hotel in downtown Reno. Unfortunately, the coolest feature, an exterior climbing wall that scales sixteen floors of the hotel, was closed due to COVID restrictions. Thankfully we arrived on a Friday night, and the little city was buzzing. After an alfresco dinner along the Truckee Riverwalk, we strolled the streets. We observed Reno’s history and future colliding as trendy hipster bars sat next to dusty pawn shops that sat next to second-rate casinos. The crowd consisted of homeless beggars, bachelorette parties, and hopeful locals. We got a huge kick out of the vintage cars cruising, and the El Camino with hydraulics was most appreciated by Bug and Noodle. We actually really enjoyed our quick stop and can see why Reno is getting attention as an under the radar place to visit or live. It’s filled with independent small businesses, surrounded by incredible nature, and inhabited by a mix of friendly longterm locals, returners, and transplants. It’s definitely on our list for a future home if we ever move back to the US long term.

We spent Sunday visiting Lena’s birth family in Carson City. The story of Lena’s adoption is long and inspiring….and we will definitely get into that in another post. But for brevity, let’s say that it is always special to connect with her birth mother, Nancy, and all the extended family. We especially enjoyed watching Bug and Noodle connect with their cousins. Everyone is so welcoming and it is such an easy crowd to slip into. They welcomed Anna with open arms and gave her the perfect American family gathering. Aside from meeting such wonderful people, Anna was quite stoked to encounter an overflowing plate of perfectly fried and frosted donuts.

After an amazing weekend in Carson and Reno, we were keen to get back into nature and set off early on Monday morning for Lake Tahoe. We packed so much into our two days around the lake and took so many photos that it warrants it own post.

The Best of the West – Brian and Lena

August 23, 2021 thewanderingthomspersLeave a comment

Our summer holidays are traditionally complicated affairs. In between visits across all the branches of our family tree, we cram in “American” sights and experiences that we hope are impressionable for Bug and Noodle. The whirlwind trip home always leaves our hearts full, as we cherish the time with our families, but we also leave exhausted and ready for a vacation from our vacation. Thus we saw a silver lining in deciding to stay in Tashkent for the summer. As much as we wanted to see our family, it was just too risky to cross borders and potentially get stuck, as happened to so many international teachers last summer.

Until our school director sent the email. Toward the end of the academic year, he informed us that he believed it was crucial for our well-being to be able to leave Uzbekistan, especially since everyone except the new hires had been on lockdown in Tashkent the previous summer and not been home in two years. He assured us that the school would support us should returning prove difficult. This was such a relief because colleagues at some international schools in other countries had received threats of losing their jobs should they leave and not be able to return on time. Unfortunately, not all our colleagues in Tashkent were actually able to go home. Canada, the UK, Australia and New Zealand were (are) enforcing a strict hotel quarantine at the expense of the traveler. On top of the psychological and financial burden, some were flat out denied because their turn around was too short.

Not only did we make the last minute call to spend the summer in the U.S., but we were actually adding a member to the Wandering Thomsper circus. Our colleague Anna was unable to get into New Zealand, so we offered our extended family and a once in a lifetime trip to America as a consolation prize. Since she had never been to the U.S. before, we felt obligated to make her visit amazing. Thus we spent several late nights sketching out a route and booking accommodations for our five week epic Best of the West Roadtrip.

Our plan was to balance nature and urban, see the major sites, and introduce her to some real life Americans. We began with a few days in San Francisco visiting Lena’s family and preparing for the trip, then headed across the border to northern Nevada for a mix of nature and more family. After a long trek through the vast desert in search of aliens, we ended up in Utah for ample exploration of National Parks. Next, we hit southern Nevada to indulge in all things Las Vegas. Because we love long drives, we backtracked to the “Giant Ditch” in the ground known as the Grand Canyon and pushed on to Central California for vineyards and time with Brian’s family. The final stretch brought us up the coast to Cambria, Monterrey and finally back to San Francisco. The journey ended with nine days of nonstop action in the city by the bay.

The trip was so epic and the photos so awesome that we’ve decided to break up the recap into several posts. Get ready!

Home for the Holidays – Lena

February 10, 2021February 10, 2021 thewanderingthomspers1 Comment

Major holidays require significant motivation and carefully consideration when living abroad. Otherwise they will likely pass by unnoticed. The required intentionality is twofold. First, our children are third culture kids (TCKs) who have spent minimal time in their passport country and thus are not growing up immersed in the religious and cultural traditions that Brian and I draw on for memories and comfort. Even when Christmas is acknowledged in the country where we live, it is generally a novelty and doesn’t penetrate into every moment from Halloween to New Years. Without the insidious Christmas music, creepy shopping mall Santas or endless TV commercials pushing cheap plastic toys, holiday season for Bug and Noodle is mostly about slowing down, spending time together, eating delicious food, and going on adventures. Second, holidays can bridge connections with people who live in our current country of residence and deepening our understanding of their culture.

As single expats without children, Christmas once meant solo travel for Brian and trips home for me. Now, the financial hit of four long-haul tickets alongside the time-sucking 32 hours in transit (each way) and soul-crushing jetlag means limiting trips home to once a year for the longer summer break from school. The non-sympathy-stirring caveat is that we often live close to destinations that might be once-in-a-lifetime trips for others. However, given the pandemic and related quarantine requirements, international travel is out of the question this year. Being so far from home during such an emotional and turbulent time globally while actively adapting to a new culture might seem the perfect storm for homesickness, as happened to me last year. But the optimism of our most recent move and the desire to nest in our new home actually made this a very cozy and content Christmas.

Expat teachers usually hop on the first flight out of town the moment school finishes for the holiday break, as we are quite burnt out by mid-December and ready to rejuvenate on a beach or re-energize by plunging into a brand new culture. However, this year most colleagues chose to stay in Tashkent for obvious reasons, so none of us was suffering from expat envy while imagining the adventures of our friends and feeling left behind. Instead, we played tourist by skiing in the nearby mountains, checking out restaurants, and rummaging at antique and handicraft markets. Moreover, it was wonderful to get to know colleagues better without the stress of school looming over us. Highlights included making Christmas ornaments with the kids’ friends, tasting our first pavlova courtesy of our friend from New Zealand who joined us for Christmas Eve dinner, and ringing in the New Year at very small and carefully orchestrated gatherings.

Because the children have now reached an age of unbounded curiosity, some of their questions and our insights can give a bit of insight into our uniquely expat holiday. Here are the gems:

Why do we have a Christmas tree?

First, it’s actually not always a tree. Pine trees often don’t grow in most places we have lived (or they are imported and offer grave financial and climate destruction). Despite the guilt about buying plastic, we have bought and sold several fake trees; they just never seem to make the cut for taking up space in the shipment. In Mexico, we used a cactus. This year we could have done a different potted plant, but we just haven’t gotten to that point of household decor. So we settled for a hybrid plastic beauty that offers two types of needles as well as berries and pinecones. As a former tree guy, Brian believes it to be a cross-breed of holly, white pine and blue spruce. Bug and Noodle had a blast attaching the color-coded branches. And we were humored that the combination of tree, grand piano and formal dining room applied to our own lives.

Second, the branches offer a place to display all the decorations we have picked up throughout our travels. The process of unpacking and hanging ornaments creates a special tradition of recollecting memories. Additionally, Brian and I are darn near giddy as we wrap and arrange presents underneath said holiday plant on Christmas Eve because it sparks our inner child and gives us satisfaction that we have achieved some level of parenting success this year.

Who is Santa Claus? Will he know where we live? How is he going to get in our house?

We have wavered about our strategic approach to the Santa part of Christmas. Both Brian and I have fond memories of the magic and anticipation surrounding St. Nick. Neither harbors the horror story of shockingly discovering he wasn’t real. It was a gradual thing aided by loose-lipped older siblings. We never felt betrayed by our parents for intentionally lying to us. It was just fun. And once we found out the truth, it was still fun to pretend. But wow, there are some strong feelings about the subject. Especially since our parenting and teaching are so deeply committed to respecting and empowering children. Psychologists have written extensively about the harm that lying to children about Santa can cause. This is supported by educators and parents dedicated to the Montessori method, which believes that adults shouldn’t expose children under six to fantasy, including Santa, as it can cause a range of negative effects. Others remind us that honesty and the true spirit of Christmas can be nurtured. The approaches we connect to honor the spirit of Christmas and are shaped most by the children’s questions and play invitations…with a little sprinkling of pretend from us.

I am completely creeped out by the Foucauldian watchman vibe of a certain approach to Christmas that uses a spying elf or Santa to scare children into good behavior. Gift-giving in our house is inspired by generosity rather than anybody’s naughty or nice behavior. Moreover, Elf on the Shelf requires way to much effort at a time of year when us teacher-parents are drowning in end-of-the-year professional responsibilities.

A dad we know offered to stop by our home dressed as Santa on Christmas Eve Day, and Brian and I wavered. Would it frighten the kids? Or take the lie a tad too far? We decided to accept the offer and see what happened. Although Bug and Noodle quickly realized that it was their friend’s dad, the squealed and reveled in the excitement. Obviously they left the Big Guy a plate of cookies before bed because that was our caloric reward for nudging them through the authentic literacy experience of writing him a letter. And the next morning, Santa’s name appeared on several presents under our tree – but definitely not the best ones because Mom and Dad are taking credit for that – and Bug proudly decoded the gift tags with he new phonics skills. When the children asked if Santa was real, we responded with our favorite teacher question: “What do you think?” And let them lead the way.

Why is Santa in Uzbekistan blue? Who is that lady with Santa?

Uzbekistan is a crossroads in so many ways, and holidays prove not an exception. We noticed that December brought modest holiday light decorations and tree displays that were familiar to our American frame of reference. But the Santa figure was skinny and dressed in blue, and his only companion was a beautiful young woman in a wintry princess costume. After questioning our local friends and a peek at Wikipedia, we learned that the man is not Santa Claus or Saint Nick, but Grandfather Frost or Ded Moroz (Дед Мороз). He made his way to modern day Uzbekistan via pagan Slavic mythology that influenced Soviet culture. He is similarly kind and delivers toys to children. However, diverging from our lore, the supporting character here is his granddaughter, Snegurochka (Снегурочка) rather than Mrs Claus or elves. And horses pull his sleigh instead of flying reindeer.

*https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ded_Moroz*

Due to the secularity of communism, Ded Moroz was temporarily banned in the late 1920s but eventually brought back. However, he was then reassigned to stand in front of the now called New Years Trees and bring presents on January 1 instead of Christmas Day. It should be added that Russian Orthodox Christianity celebrates Christmas on January 7 or 8 following the Julian calendar rather than on December 25 for sects of Christianity following the Gregorian calendar, not that the technicality has much religious implication since biblical scholars agree that Jesus was not actually born in the winter.

Who is Jesus? Why are we celebrating his birthday?

Well, Brian and I are a bit loose in our religious discussions with the kids. We grew up going to varying intensities of Sunday school and got the gist of Christianity, but neither of us identifies strongly with the faith today. We talk to the children about God (as he or she). They know that the mosques, temples and churches they’ve visited are special places to pray. We describe praying as mindfulness and listening to our hearts. Things that we emphasis as sacred are family, kindness, acceptance of others and ourselves, and nature. Jesus fits well into this view. Bug and Noodle know he was a wonderful man who was kind and generous and loving to all. The one slightly religious tradition for our Christmas is cuddling up and watching the movie, The Star, which is a very child-friendly depiction of Jesus’ birth.

Admittedly, this was not our best year for strongly emphasizing the giving part of Christmas. We did take each child shopping separately to choose gifts for the rest of the family. Also, they selected items to donate to our school’s charity drive for local children in need (and we involve them in events throughout the year). However, now that we are more settled in UZ and the children are at ages where they can more independently participate in many tasks, we are keen to weave empathy and charity into our family traditions not just at Christmas but throughout the year.

Heading for the Hills – Brian

August 4, 2020August 5, 2020 thewanderingthomspers1 Comment

Nature is an anchor for our family. Lena and I share parallel childhood memories of camping and trips to national parks. Lena was a Girl Scout, and I was an Eagle Scout. I spent a university summer at Rocky Mountain National Park as an Environmental Educator, and my first job after graduating was for the US Forest Service. Our honeymoon was camping in Kruger National Park in South Africa, and we first tested the waters of family camping in Sai Kung, Hong Kong when the kids were 1 and 2 years old. Our favorite social distancing activity in Mexico was trekking through the jungle surrounding Sayulita to spend long days lounging under makeshift shelters on empty beaches. Socially distanced urban hikes around San Francisco injected the monotony of shelter-at-home with fresh air and endless views.

By the time we found ourselves in Marin, we were surrounded by incredible outdoor opportunities living at the base of Mount Tamalpais and down the road from Samuel P. Taylor State Park and Point Reyes National Seashore. When word got out that Lassen Volcanic National Park had re-opened, we were ready to hit the road. However, we struggled to find clear information about which campgrounds were open. The ones that took reservations were all booked. Clearly we were not the only family itching to get away. Despite not having a secured spot for our tent, we tossed our gear in the trunk of Mimi’s car and headed to the mountains. In addition to sleeping in a tent and roasting marshmallows, Bug and Noodle were extremely excited to see volcanoes. Of course they were expecting active eruptions, and we let them relish in that excitement before crushing their dreams.

Luckily, we were able to claim a first-come-first-serve spot at the Southwest Walk-In Campground, which is located near the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center in the southwest corner of the park. This was an ideal location because the Visitor Center has a shop selling hot coffee and cold beer, and its on the main park road. Regarding the campsite, we had read about black bear danger so we were prepared with our bear canister, but each campsite comes with a large bear-proof storage cabinet. It also offers a sturdy picnic table and metal-ringed fire pit. Our site had minimal shade, so we were glad to have an extra tarp over our table. Although technically a hike-in campground, the parking lot is a two minute walk from the site. The restrooms were open and offered flush toilets, sinks and soap for handwashing, a utility sink to wash dishes, and secure bins for refuse and recycling. In addition to the snack shop, the Visitors Center also has a ranger station, gift shop, very clean restrooms, amphitheater, and a (closed) exhibition area. Although the Ranger-led programs were canceled due to COVID restrictions, we had informative and friendly conversations with the appropriately-masked rangers as they passed through the campground and greeted us at the Visitors Center.

There are many great trails in the park. We started our exploration of the park by hiking the 3.6 mile round trip to Mill Creek Falls since the trailhead was steps from our campsite. This is a moderate trail that rises and falls gently as it winds through huge red fir trees. Sadly, the white bark pines along the trail and throughout the park are being decimated by blister rust and mountain pine beetles, and many have taken on the orange tinge of dying trees. Nonetheless, Bug and Noodle loved the creek crossings, insect sightings and opportunities to climb on fallen logs. They also got to test out their new hiking poles, which were a short-lived novelty that ended up clipped to our backpacks. By the end of the hike, Noodle was whining on my shoulders and Lena was a fountain of positive talk about perseverance as she dragged Bug up the final ascent. We are still working on pacing ourselves. Due to its elevation and thus late season snow, the most popular Bumpass Hell Trail and Hydrothermal Area were still closed in early July.

Surrounded by nature, we encouraged the kids to notice details and voice their curiosities. These are skills that we believe are important for lifelong learners and should be honed consciously. Without toys or gadgets, the boys noticed everything from beetles to clouds, asked a million questions, and played creatively with the tree stumps, sticks and rocks around us. We also just spent time watching birds and staring at the campfire. Embracing nature has many health benefits, such as increasing attention span, decreasing stress (and thus lowering cortisol levels), and improving the immune system. Quite the antidote for being stuck indoors during a pandemic.

We were particularly excited that the Junior Ranger Program by the National Park Service was still available during our stay. In its modified form, the kids were able to complete a highly differentiated interactive booklet that included various activities to document observations about geology, ecology, and human impact on the environment. In non-COVID times, they would have participated in Ranger-led hikes, attended presentations in the amphitheater, and viewed exhibits in the Visitors Center. Nonetheless, Bug and Noodle were excited to find and classify rocks, identify features of different trees, match animals with their tracks, and consider how our choices affect nature. Their work was rewarded with an official swearing-in ceremony led by a real Park Ranger. After raising their right hand and promising to protect the park and all natural spaces, each child received a special badge. Of course we bought the adorable Junior Ranger vests.

Naturally, we were all excited to see volcanoes. Lassen is unique because it contains all four types of volcanoes in the world. The biggest is Lassen Peak (10,457ft/3,187m), which is an active plug dome that last erupted between 1914-1917. The park also contains clear examples of cinder cone (aptly named Cinder Cone, at 6,896ft/2,102m, final eruption in 1666), shield (Prospect Peak, at 8,342ft/2,542m) and composite (Brokeoff Mountain – also called Mount Tehama by local tribes – at 9,235ft/2,815m, which became extinct 387,000 years ago). However, these dormant or extinct specimens just looked like plain old mountains to the kids, and Noodle was disappointed he didn’t get to see “Mountain Lassen ‘derupt.’”

The main and only road through the park is the Lassen Volcanic National Park Highway, which begins at the Kohm Yah-mah-nee Visitor Center and winds up and down throughout the park to the Northwest corner around the Manzanita Lake Area. This 30-mile drive hits many of the highlights in the park from hydrothermal areas to dramatic views to frigid alpine lakes.

Our first stop was the Sulfur Works Hydrothermal which we smelled long before arriving. Even wearing masks, the odor was nose-melting. Both Bug and Noodle were amazed by the boiling mud pot, which was located right next to the highway. They couldn’t get enough of the idea that liquid hot magma was making the mud boil.

After getting back into fresh air, their next excitement was experiencing snow for the first time in their lives. It was just some dirty drifts on the side of the road, but they were ecstatic – until they felt it. They instinctively made snowballs, but Noodle cried when his ungloved hands turned red. His verdict was, “Too cold.” Melting snow means freezing mountain lakes, and I couldn’t resist an invigorating plunge into Lake Helen.

The road’s varied altitudes pass through multiple plant life zones. It begins in the red fir forest, which also includes lodgepole pine, mountain hemlock, and western white pine. Then the sparse subalpine zone, which is the upper limit of tree growth, offers gnarled white bark pine and mountain hemlock growing as “flag trees” (branches growing on only one side) that hint to the challenges of long winters. Finally, it descends through verdant meadows, winding creeks, and red fir covered in lichen.

The breathtaking drive ended at Manzanita Lake, which is also the location of the park’s largest campground. The lake added another breathtaking component to our endless views of snowcapped mountains and towering trees for the past couple of days. Unfortunately, we couldn’t swim due to warnings about river otter attacks. However, Bug recently learned about fishing and this was his first real attempt. For several weeks, the kids had been practicing their casts with toddler-friendly training poles in our backyard. Alas, no luck catching a fish in Manzanita Lake (though tons were jumping), but they happily reeled in many sticks and aquatic plants.

Since everything was going so well, we decided to tack on a few extra days in a slightly different location. After stopping at Lake Almanor to check out the real estate, we headed east to the shores of Lake Davis in Plumas County. We settled on a US Forest Service campground called Grasshopper Flat and pitched our tent in a huge site with direct access to the water. With no real plan at Lake Davis, we ate slow breakfasts on our private peninsula, swung in the hammock, checked out the quaint town of Graeagle, and took another attempt at fishing. Noodle was over fishing by this point and contently played with “boats” (sticks and leaves) in the calm shores. On the other hand, Bug was determined to catch a fish – a large bass to be specific. I ended up accidentally catching a small sunfish on a test cast after a rod repair, and I went from father of the year to heartbreaker after Bug failed to catch anything and was devastated. He did not like the life lesson that fishing is about patience. After three days of relaxing lakeside, we were ready to head home. The shower blocks were closed and we were caked in six days of dust. Even the kids were begging for a bath. Had we been able to wash, we probably would have stayed longer.

The week was perfect. We played in the dirt. We breathed fresh air. We went on long walks. We laughed. And we said thank you for all the gifts we share together. It’s been a few weeks since the trip, and we’ve sent off all our camping equipment in our shipment to Uzbekistan (only to learn that we will actually be in California for quite a bit longer), so naturally Bug and Noodle have begun requesting another camping trip.